Baking & Snack - March 2021 - 54

VEGAN FORMULATING

VEGAN FORMULATING MAY SEEM DAUNTING,
BUT ALL IT TAKES IS A METHODICAL APPROACH
AND TESTING, LIKE ALL REFORMULATING.

Fat Badger removed
eggs and honey from its
dairy-free cookies to go
completely vegan.
Fat Badger

vegan sweet baked goods, " said David Guilfoyle, applications lead for bakery, fats and oils, DuPont Nutrition &
Biosciences.  " A vegan sweet baked good may come out of
the oven too dense or have too moist of crumb. The first
thing to look at is the batter specific gravity. If it is too high
or too low, and the formulator is using gums, the formulator may need to switch the type of gums to get the proper
batter viscosity. 
With cakes, he also suggested using baking acids to provide leavening lift and aeration. If they aren't properly neutralized, however, the finished product volume and texture
can be adversely affected.
Lariza Lopez de Leon, senior product technologist,
Caldic Inc., noted that a combination of ingredients may be
necessary to get the functionality. For instance, texture and
creaminess from dairy fat might require a blend of a vegetable fat, a starch and a flavor to deliver the target attributes.
Vegetable-based ingredients can come with their own set
of flavor challenges, however. The Synergy Flavors application team used pea protein and starch to compensate for
the egg removal in a vegan muffin. Oat milk was added for
some color that would have been provided by milk or milk
powder and egg in a conventional recipe. Descriptive sen-

sory analysis conducted on the plant-based muffin revealed
significant beany and starchy notes with a distinct lack of
flavor delivery.
" Understanding the inherent flavor contributed by
plant-based ingredients allowed our application teams to
develop a solution that masks the undesirable flavor notes
while building a rich creamy profile characteristic of dairy
ingredients found in bakery products, " said Natalie Sheil,
bakery category manager at Synergy Flavors.
Cheese flavors are a popular savory dairy flavor that
bakers may want to replicate in vegan products. Ralf
Tschenscher, baking business development  manager at
Lesaffre, suggested using vegan yeast extract to provide
umami to vegan cheese flavors that may be used in breads,
crackers and artisan rolls.
The Edlong Corp.'s focus rests on leveraging the taste
and functionality of dairy. For vegan applications, where
conventional dairy isn't acceptable, that means the company creates authentic flavor profiles along with improving
the overall mouthfeel of a finished product when necessary.
" In the case of sweet baked products, where you may be
replacing dairy fat with vegetable fat, we would add a butter flavor to replicate the exact type of butter you want to
replace, sweet butter, cultured butter or even brand-name
butters, " said Anne Marie Butler, global director - strategic territories, Edlong. " Most of our butter flavors also do
a great job improving the waxy mouthfeel that can often
come from vegetable fats. "
She added that formulators often focus on creating a
vegan product to match the non-vegan equivalent. Not every consumer wants this imitation, according to research
from Edlong.
" We had a customer who was developing a croissant for
the plant-based market, " Ms. Butler said. " Typically, a croissant has a strong butter taste, but in this case, their consumer focus group felt that this plant-based version should
not be strong in butter taste but instead wanted to mask the
vegetable fat taste, improve the mouthfeel and decrease the
waxy vegetable aftertaste without giving an intense butter profile. "
Vegan formulating may seem daunting, but all it takes is
a methodical approach and testing, like all reformulating.
" By taking it step-by-step, formulators can solve for
one problem, see how it affects the rest of the formulation, then solve for the next, " Ms. Santoro said. " By being
more methodical about the recipe, product developers can
deliver great-tasting vegan cakes and sweet baked goods
each time. "

*

54 Baking & Snack March 2021 / www.bakingbusiness.com


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Baking & Snack - March 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Baking & Snack - March 2021

Baking & Snack - March 2021 - Intro
Baking & Snack - March 2021 - 1
Baking & Snack - March 2021 - 2
Baking & Snack - March 2021 - 3
Baking & Snack - March 2021 - 4
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