Baking & Snack - April 2020 - 28

ARTISAN INSPIRATION

"IT'S LIKE THE TREE THAT FALLS IN
THE FOREST THAT NOBODY HEARS.
IF YOU MAKE A GREAT LOAF OF
BREAD AND NOBODY EATS IT,
DID YOU REALLY MAKE A
GREAT LOAF OF BREAD?"
Etai Baron, Izzio's Artisan Bakery

Zach Martinucci, founder and "head rebel" at Rebel
Bread in Denver. "In our small-batch artisan bakery, we
have mixers and machinery, but we also use our hands.
There's a human element to baking that matters to us."
Mr. Baron believes that automation and technology,
combined with selective hand crafting, allow wholesale
bakeries like Izzio's to bring quality artisan breads to the
mass market. To maintain the products' inspirational appeal, he targets his bakery's efforts to the fermentation
process where it impacts flavor and texture the most.
"We have plenty of hands in our process, but I've also
seen lousy commercial bakery products made by hand,"
Mr. Baron said. "The hands are not the differentiator
here. They're just not. It's time and ingredients."
Slicing and bagging, he added, make artisan breads
more commercially available for the broader market to
consume and to use as a classic carrier for a bounty of
meal options.
"The slicing makes it easy for consumers to keep it on
the shelf, freeze, use for toast or sandwiches that most
of bread is used for," Mr. Baron said. "The key at the end
of the day is to make a bread that is commercially viable. So, the compromise that we have to make as a bakery is more automation. That's because it's one thing to
take time to make bread; it's another to do everything
by hand."
Of course, other bakers have different interpretations
of the artisan process. Richard Eley, director of commercialization for Highland Baking Co., Northbrook, Ill.,
stated that Old World techniques such as bulk fermentation and retarding require dividing and shaping only by
hand. The process starts with autolyzing, which is incorporating water and flour, then letting it ferment for 30
minutes to one hour to hydrate the flour, which provides
better strength and structure.
"When you make bread like that, you handle it in a
way that a machine cannot do," Mr. Eley explained.
"Autolyze delivers a dough that holds higher hydration
which helps the fermentation and strength development
which gives you a loaf with better texture, rise and flavor.
It's a deceptively simple process. It allows you to get better strength and development of the dough."
Rudy Abiera, Highland Baking's R&D manager, observed the process takes at least six hours, with some
sourdoughs retarding for up to 24 hours to develop their
intense flavor and open-cell structure. Hearth baking at
high-temperatures - up to 100˚F hotter than the typiTop: Resting time after mixing enhances the dough's flavor and allows it to relax
and hydrate further.
Bottom: In competition, judges recognize an inspirational idea when they
wonder how a contestant made something or want another bite of a product
they just tasted.
Sosland Publishing Co.

28 Baking & Snack April 2020 / www.bakingbusiness.com

B&S April book.indb 28

4/6/2020 11:17:17 AM


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Baking & Snack - April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Baking & Snack - April 2020

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https://digitalbs.bakingbusiness.com/sosland/bs/2003_12_01
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