Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 62

CHABASO

Chabaso's wheat seminar meets 'ag in the middle'
While the food supply chain affects  and is affected by
 everyone, it's often hard to see. For Charlie Negaro
Jr., owner of Atticus Bookstore Café and son of Charles
Negaro, founder of Atticus and Chabaso in New Haven,
CT, that relationship was eye-opening when he visited the
Bread Lab at Washington State University.
"This was a point of incredible inspiration for me," he
said. "I grew up with great bread all around me; we'd been
making it all my life. But for me, it faded into the background as something that could create meaningful change
for a community and food system."
After a decade working at Chabaso, where the bakery deals
with 100,000 lb of dough a day, Charlie Negaro visited a
wheat farm for the first time, and a switch flipped. "I left there
knowing this is something I want to be a part of," he said.
After several more visits to Bread Lab and a trip to
Ecotrust in Portland, OR, he discovered "Ag at the Middle,"
a report published by Ecotrust. "There's small ag which is
a farmer raising enough organic chicken for the farmer's
market, and there's big ag, like Purdue," Charlie Negaro explained. "But if Chabaso or Atticus want to do something
between those, we have to solve this 'agriculture in the
middle' chunk. You have to vertically integrate or solve the
problems from start to finish because no one else is going
to do it. There isn't enough demand in the middle."
During the 18 months that followed, Charlie Negaro
began working with two farmers, one who grows a few
thousand pounds of rye and wheat, and another who
grows hard red winter wheat in a varietal called Redeemer.
"It became a cornerstone for our bakery," he said.
Since then, he's been dedicated to seeking out and working with Connecticut farmers to increase wheat production
in the state through methods such as crop rotation.
To perpetuate a positive cycle, Chabaso is partnering
with the Yale Landscape Lab to host a grains conference
on Oct. 8 to promote and develop the local grain economy
in Connecticut and the Northeast region. "It can impact
tourism, branding, marketing for food businesses in the
region, not to mention giving farmers an opportunity to
grow a premium product," he said.
On the macro level, through the conference and by
working in that "ag in the middle" space, Atticus and
Chabaso can influence Connecticut's struggling economy.
"Working in the middle can create demand for jobs at
every point in the economy," Charlie Negaro suggested.
"There will be farmers getting more money for varietal
grains. It can impact transportation, packaging, processing.
And then bakers and brewers can command a premium
for what the farmers are growing."
For information on the seminar, visit www.chabaso.com.

62 Baking & Snack August 2019 / www.bakingandsnack.com

has changed ... but the tradition stays the same.
The bakery relies on the same poolish for its signature
ciabatta. But today, the poolish, autolyse and final dough
are all mixed in five 500-lb VMI spiral mixers, one for
autolyse, one for preferment and three for the dough.
"Everything we do - all batches - use some sort of
preferment," Mr. Abrams noted, adding that some of
the breads among the bakery's 100 or so SKUs may use
levain, sponge or biga as well.
"Could we get away without these things?" Mr.
Abrams pondered. "Probably. But we choose not to because it makes our process better. When we make the
bread, the flavor is coming from time and fermentation.
The longer we can ferment each part of the process, the
more flavor we build."
For the Chabaso ciabatta, life begins at the poolish
when it ferments in buckets, 56 lb at a time, for around
15 hours overnight before entering the final mix. Then
flour is automatically loaded from one of two Contemar
Silo Systems 50,000-lb indoor silos, and all other ingredients are hand-scaled.
Due to the high volume of buckets used in the fermentation process, Chabaso recently invested in an automated washing system from Douglas Machines Corp.
"We go through a lot of buckets, and this will cut down
on time and labor," Mr. Abrams said.
After mixing, the dough is hand-scaled into more
buckets, where it enjoys 2 hours of fermentation before processing on either a WP Bakery Systems artisan
bread line for smaller products such as cut rolls, sticks or
square ciabatta rolls, or a Rheon stress-free makeup line
for most all other ciabatta products, which were running
during Baking & Snack's visit.
On the Rheon line, dough is measured by weight,
which reduces waste and requires less labor. The line's
checkweigher also ensures weight accuracy while providing the handmade look that artisan loaves are known
for. "Our bread is inherently inconsistent," Mr. Abrams
said. "Once it's at a high hydration, there's a lot of gas, so
there will always be variations. The checkweigh system
really helps with that."
Once the small dough chunks enter the line,
they travel as gently as possible through a series of
stretchers and rollers (with the checkweigher underneath). After being reduced, the dough sheet is cut
vertically, two at a time via adjustable circular cutters
before running through a guillotine to create the final dough pieces.
Next, the pieces go through extra steps under a
chain roller and pressure blade roller to set up the
loaves. According to Mr. Abrams, Rheon would say
this is technically not a "line" but a series of makeup
components. But after more than a decade of doing


http://www.chabaso.com http://www.bakingandsnack.com

Baking & Snack - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Baking & Snack - August 2019

Baking & Snack - August 2019
Contents
Contents
Editorial - A tale of two bakeries
Newsfront - Great Harvest testing home bread delivery
General Mills shifts focus to speed to market
Bunge in partnership to measure sustainability
News - Five trends impacting bakery and snack packaging
Atlas Holdings to purchase snacks unit from TreeHouse
Multivac acquires Fritsch Group
Middleby acquires Packaging Progressions
Ferrero to acquire Campbell Soup’s Kelsen Group
People/In Brief
Food Safety Series - the ALLERGEN piece
Klosterman Baking Co. - ANOTHER HISTORIC MILESTONE
Creating a buzz around a cause
Chabaso - the influential Loaf
Chabaso’s wheat seminar meets ‘ag in the middle’
International Series: Europe - NO TASTE LIKE HOME
Mixes and Bases - ELIMINATING ERRORS
Chocolate - crafting cocoa to expectations
The long road to sustainable cocoa
TECHNICALLY SPEAKING - SANITARY DESIGN made easy
Cake Processing - INTO THIN AIR
Pyler Says: Batter specific gravity
Depanning - CATCH AND RELEASE
ABA takes major step to fight tray theft
Slicing - Making the cut
Continuous Improvement - Good...Better...BEST
Equipment’s role in continuous improvement
Multipacks - Multidimensional MULTIPACKS
Putting the variety in multipacks
Vehicles - efficiency ON THE ROAD
ABA heads IBIE logistics conference
The future of commercial vehicles
SANITATION STRATEGIES - EXPANDING 5S
INDUSTRY IMAGES: IFT - the future is NOW
INDUSTRY IMAGES: BEMA - ALL-TIME HIGH
Meeting Preview: CASBA - Worthy Celebration
The Kit Murphy Memorial Scholarship
Meeting Preview: IBIE - THE TIME HAS COME
Meeting Preview: ABA Technical Conference - EMPOWERING BAKERS
Events
Featured Innnovation Center
Ingredients & Formulating
Equipment & Packaging
Patents
New on the Shelf
MARKETPLACE
AD INDEX
AD INDEX
NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Baking & Snack - August 2019
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Baking & Snack - August 2019
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - FC - 1
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - FC - 2
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 2
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 3
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 4
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 5
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 6
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 7
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 8
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Contents
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 10
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Contents
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Editorial - A tale of two bakeries
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 13
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 14
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 15
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Bunge in partnership to measure sustainability
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 17
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Multivac acquires Fritsch Group
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 19
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Ferrero to acquire Campbell Soup’s Kelsen Group
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 21
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - People/In Brief
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 23
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 24
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 25
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 26
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Food Safety Series - the ALLERGEN piece
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 28
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 29
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 30
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 31
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 32
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 33
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 34
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 35
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 36
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 37
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Klosterman Baking Co. - ANOTHER HISTORIC MILESTONE
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 39
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 40
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 41
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 42
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 43
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 44
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 45
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 46
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 47
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 48
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 49
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Creating a buzz around a cause
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 51
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 52
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 53
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 54
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 55
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 56
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Chabaso - the influential Loaf
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 58
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 59
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 60
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 61
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Chabaso’s wheat seminar meets ‘ag in the middle’
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 63
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 64
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 65
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 66
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 67
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 68
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - International Series: Europe - NO TASTE LIKE HOME
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 70
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 71
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 72
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 73
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 74
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 75
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 76
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 77
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 78
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Mixes and Bases - ELIMINATING ERRORS
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 80
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 81
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 82
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 83
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 84
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 85
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 86
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 87
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 88
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 89
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 90
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 91
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 92
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 93
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 94
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Chocolate - crafting cocoa to expectations
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - The long road to sustainable cocoa
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 97
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 98
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 99
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 100
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 101
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 102
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 103
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 104
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - TECHNICALLY SPEAKING - SANITARY DESIGN made easy
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 106
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Cake Processing - INTO THIN AIR
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 108
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 109
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 110
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 111
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 112
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 113
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Pyler Says: Batter specific gravity
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 115
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 116
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 117
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 118
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Depanning - CATCH AND RELEASE
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 120
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - ABA takes major step to fight tray theft
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 122
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 123
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 124
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 125
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 126
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 127
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 128
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Slicing - Making the cut
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 130
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 131
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 132
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 133
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 134
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 135
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 136
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 137
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 138
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Continuous Improvement - Good...Better...BEST
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 140
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 141
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 142
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 143
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Equipment’s role in continuous improvement
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 145
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 146
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 147
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 148
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Multipacks - Multidimensional MULTIPACKS
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Putting the variety in multipacks
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 151
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 152
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 153
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Vehicles - efficiency ON THE ROAD
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - ABA heads IBIE logistics conference
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - The future of commercial vehicles
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 157
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 158
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - SANITATION STRATEGIES - EXPANDING 5S
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 160
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - INDUSTRY IMAGES: IFT - the future is NOW
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 162
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 163
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 164
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - INDUSTRY IMAGES: BEMA - ALL-TIME HIGH
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 166
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 167
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 168
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 169
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Meeting Preview: CASBA - Worthy Celebration
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - The Kit Murphy Memorial Scholarship
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 172
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Meeting Preview: IBIE - THE TIME HAS COME
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 174
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 175
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 176
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Meeting Preview: ABA Technical Conference - EMPOWERING BAKERS
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Events
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 179
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 180
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 181
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Featured Innnovation Center
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 183
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Ingredients & Formulating
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 185
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 186
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 187
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 188
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 189
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Equipment & Packaging
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 191
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 192
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 193
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 194
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 195
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 196
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 197
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - Patents
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 199
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 200
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 201
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - New on the Shelf
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 203
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 204
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 205
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - MARKETPLACE
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 207
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 208
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 209
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 210
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 211
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 212
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 213
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 214
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 215
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - AD INDEX
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - AD INDEX
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - NEW PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 219
Baking & Snack - August 2019 - 220
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