Baking & Snack - May 2018 - 61
IT'S ALL GOOD
Chocolate's decadent, comforting flavor makes it hard to leave out of any formulation.
by Donna Berry
Demand for premium real chocolate - whether alone
or in baked goods, snack mixes, frozen desserts or other
foods - is at an all-time high. Thanks to increased consumer awareness of the health benefits of flavonoid-rich
cocoa and artisan producers raising awareness of sustainable cocoa bean farming programs, chocolate is in
Sometimes, however, real chocolate does not make
economical or functional sense in formulations, and
instead, compounds or coatings are used. These chocolate-like ingredients provide suppliers flexibility in
formulation, which enables bakers to get more creative
in product innovation. Choosing between the real and
compound varieties can be a challenge.
Layers of understanding
Chocolate is derived from the cocoa plant. In the US, the
Code of Federal Regulations defines three basic types of
chocolate: dark, milk and white. The law mandates that
milk and dark chocolates must contain chocolate liquor,
while all three must be made with cocoa butter. The
regulations are very specific regarding the other optional
ingredients - sugar, milk/whey solids, flavoring and
emulsifiers - that may be included in each of the three
types of real chocolate.
"While compounds resemble and deliver the sensory
properties of chocolate, they do not meet the standards of
identity for chocolate products," said Marret Arfsten, cocoa
and chocolate, product line and marketing leader, Cargill.
Barry Callebaut recently brought to market ruby
chocolate, which the company described as the "fourth"
chocolate. Introduced in September 2017, ruby chocolate has a berry-type fruit flavor and reddish color from
the ruby cocoa beans from which it is derived. It took
many years for Barry Callebaut to design a process that
unlocked the ruby beans' unique attributes. Already being used in Japan and South Korea, it will be some time
before retail products launch in the US, as the Food and
Drug Administration has yet to issue a standard of identity for the new chocolate. It can, however, be used in
retail bakeries and confection shops.
To better understand the varied tastes of real chocolate, Barry Callebaut introduced a sensory lexicon,
which includes a chocolate sensory language and a tasting ritual. It was inspired by what exists for wine, coffee
and craft beer categories.
"Containing more than 20,000 identifiable chemical
compounds, cocoa is one of the most complex foodstuffs
on earth," said Pablo Perversi, chief innovation, quality
and sustainability officer, Barry Callebaut. "The sensory
language that we have developed for chocolate will allow
consumers to share their passion for a specific chocolate
taste much more accurately."
Pairing cocoa and chocolate sensory research with
can incorporate various
flavors like hazelnut to
enhance muffins and
www.bakingandsnack.com / May 2018 Baking & Snack 61